Royal ceremonial beadwork: breast cover (incebetha)

1800s

Royal ceremonial beadwork: breast cover (incebetha), 1800s. Africa, Southern Africa, South Africa, Southeast Cape Region, Unknown female Xhosa-style maker(s). Glass beads, hide, and sinew; overall: 94 x 29.8 cm (37 x 11 3/4 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Severance and Greta Millikin Trust 2022.49.b Elite Xhosa women once wore beaded garments like this on festive occasions. Made almost completely from imported Venetian or Bohemian glass beads, they were overt status symbols. Imported beads functioned as money for the Xhosa between about 1770 and 1829. These garments’ female maker carefully selected beads of the highest quality, uniform in color, shape, and size. Made in the same shape as the pendant, a swallowtail-shaped apron (CMA 2010.206) worn under the skirt completed the ensemble.