Royal ceremonial headdress (umnqwazi)

1800s

Royal ceremonial headdress (umnqwazi), 1800s. Africa, Southern Africa, South Africa, Southeast Cape Region, Unknown female Xhosa-style maker(s). Glass beads, sinew, and hide; overall: 64.1 x 27.6 cm (25 1/4 x 10 7/8 in.). The Cleveland Museum of Art, Severance and Greta Millikin Trust 2022.49.a Elite Xhosa women once wore beaded garments like this on festive occasions. Made almost completely from imported Venetian or Bohemian glass beads, they were overt status symbols. Imported beads functioned as money for the Xhosa between circa 1770 and 1829. These garments’ female maker carefully selected beads of the highest quality, uniform in color, shape, and size. Made in the same shape as the pendant, a swallowtail-shaped apron (CMA 2010.206) worn under the skirt completed the ensemble. The beads to make a headdress like this cost several cattle in the early nineteenth century, an amount most couldn't afford.